Lynn Nottage’s ‘Intimate Apparel’ at Compass Rose is marvelous theater

The play delves into sexism, classism, and racism in 1905 New York City. The performances take you to deep and thoughtful places.

Esther Mills, an African American seamstress in New York City in 1905, crafts intimate apparel for both wealthy and impoverished clients. Though she doesn’t bedazzle in the looks department, Esther yearns to be married. She repeatedly goes to parties but comes up unlucky in the game of love. Eventually, Cupid’s arrow finds George Armstong, a worker on the Panama Canal project, who starts writing to Esther. Unfortunately, Esther cannot write or read.

Compass Rose Theater’s Lottie E. Porch has directed two-time Pulitzer- and Obie-winning playwright Lynn Nottage’s intriguing tale, which delves into sexism, classism, and racism. The performances are so good, and the story is so deep, you’ll want to see it again.

Jessica Cooperstock (Mrs. Van Buren) and Danielle J. Curry (Esther Mills) in ‘Intimate Apparel.’ Photo by Joshua Hubbell.

Oh, how I wish I could reveal the juicy, melodramatic highlights of this show. All I can do is tell you to add Esther, her shady suitor, the Jewish merchant she buys fabric from, her friend the hooker, and her wealthy white client, and find that it equals a thoroughly entertaining show.

Danielle J. Curry as North Carolina-born Esther Mills gives one of the better performances I’ve seen this year. She was “in the moment” in every scene, and apropos emotions painted her face. Curry made every scene and every word count.

Evan Carrington gives George an impressive arc. In the first act, he performed his lines from house left of the audience — spotlighted — ostensibly reading letters he had supposedly written to Esther. He wrote of the hardships of construction in the tropical heat of Panama, and how much he yearned to meet her. With each letter, he got closer to the stage. In the second act, George and Esther’s meeting showcased the adage “Without conflict, there is no drama.”

Lezlie Hatcher plays saucy sex worker Mayme, who brags about her conquests with such lines as “A gentle touch is gold in any country.” In a revelation that proved pivotal to the story, Mayme confided in Esther about an affair she was having with a client. Hatcher made me both hate and be amused by Mayme

Jessica Cooperstock plays well-to-do Mrs. Van Buren, a consumer of Esther’s corsets. Stuck in a sexless marriage, Mrs. Van Buren confided in Esther in scenes that reminded me of Scarlett O’Hara confiding to her maid, Mammy, in Gone With the Wind. Van Buren also helped Esther with her literacy problem.

One of the more powerful scenes between them was Mrs. Van Buren pleading with Esther to be her friend and Esther responding, “I can’t even go through your front door.” Another juicy tidbit was Mrs. Van Buren’s sexual reveal, late in the play.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Danielle J. Curry (Esther Mills) with Conor Scanlan (Mr. Marks), Evan Carrington (George Armstrong), and Lezlie Hatcher (Mayme) in ‘Intimate Apparel.’ Photos by Joshua Hubbell.

“If it makes you happy it makes me happy” was a statement that summed up cloth merchant Mr. Marks’ attitude toward Esther. Mr. Marks sold Esther the fabric she needed to weave her intimate apparel. There was a hint of romance between Marks and Esther. It was clear that Marks, a Romanian Jew — betrothed to another — and Esther, a Black American, would have many barriers to their connecting.

Kecia Campbell plays Mrs. Dickson, Esther’s landlady. Though her scenes were few, she worked well with Curry as her character explained the goings-on of Esther’s life.

Katelyn Marie’s costume design evoked the period. Marie designed an impressive series of dresses and suits. She provided the fabric in Mr. Marks’ shop. Mud and grime on George’s costume might have better conveyed Panama.

I liked Esther’s antique sewing machine and the verisimilitude it brought. Debra Fortier and Susan Flynn’s props were on point. Lottie Porch designed a simple set, with walls with various wallpaper that conveyed different locations. The downstage left piano represented Mayme’s room.

This is a marvelous piece of theater. The performances take you to deep and thoughtful places. Be sure to catch this one and savor it.

Running time: Two hours, including a 15-minute intermission.

Intimate Apparel plays through October 6, 2024, at Compass Rose Theater performing at Maryland Hall for the Creative Arts (third floor), 801 Chase Street, Annapolis, MD. Tickets ($15–$55) can be purchased online or by calling the box office at 410-980-6662.

Intimate Apparel
By Lynn Nottage

CAST
Kecia Campbell: Mrs. Dickson
Evan Carrington: George Armstrong
Jessica Cooperstock: Mrs. Van Buren
Danielle J. Curry: Esther Mills
Lezlie Hatcher: Mayme
Conor Scanlan: Mr. Marks
Angela Whittaker is an understudy

ARTISTIC AND CREATIVE TEAM
Director: Lottie E. Porch
Costume Design: Katelyn Marie
Lighting Design: Marianne Meadows
Set Design: Lottie Porch
Props & Costumes: Debra Fortier, Susan Flynn
Set Build: Omar Said, Brodie James Osborne
Sound Designer: Lottie Porch